Ask any surfer why they surf, and their answer will never simply be for the exercise. For surfers, getting in the water can mean many things, meditation, personal time, and reverence for nature.
“I used to watch Marvin Foster go left at Waimea in the ‘80s,” Carroll said. “That was his spot. I used to think you’re gonna get cracked, but it wasn’t too bad. A good pounding and some fun lefts.” ...
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